Anzac Day 2010 Gallipoli, Turkey

Anzac Day 2010 marked a monumentous moment in my life this year as I was able to attend the Dawn Service at Anzac Cove thanks to John Waller and the people at Boronia Tours in Melbourne. The Iceland volcano thankfully didn't delay the arrival of my plane into Istanbul. Therefore on the 22nd of April I landed in Istanbul to perfect weather and a 5 and a half hour bus trip to Canakkle where I was met by John who spirited me off to the Hotel Kum where we were to be staying for our time in Gallipoli. We first went and had lunch with the owners of the Hotel Kamal and Cenk at this little restaurant that overlooked the Dardanelles. The food was amazing and Kamal and Cenk were the best of hosts. From here we headed back to the hotel which was situated in an beautiful little spot next to the beach where I could bunk down for the night. Chris made in about 9 p.m. that night so we were all now set for the next day.

Due to the jet lag I couldn't sleep so I was up from about 3:30 am which gave me the chance to see one of the most beautiful sunrises ever. It made me realise the landscape was not that dissimilar from that of home. You could only image what the boys thought every morning that they woke up to face a new hell in such an idillic location. Chris and I were introduced to the rest of the group which included the ABC crew who were looking after the telecast and the logistical crew who were charged with managing the bus movements on the peninsula, Greg and Keith. These people were charged with a huge task of co-ordinating over 700 buses and also setting up in conjunction with the local professionals the camera and lighting for the service. The ABC presenter for the evening was Miriam Corowa who did an outstanding job in front of the camera crew which included Ron Martin and the rest of his crew. There was also Johns daughter Michelle and her husband Darren who were to accompany us on our treks around Anzac and also once we returned to Istanbul. We were also introduced to John Hamilton who is a respected author of such books as 'Goodbye Cobber, God Bless You' and 'Gallipoli Sniper: The Life Of Billy Sing'. Both these books are brilliant insights into the lives of our men at Gallipoli and are highly recommended.

Our first outing for the day took us around the main sites and cemeteries of Gallipoli which included Shrapnel Valley Plugees Plateau and Beach cemetery where John Simpson Kirkpatrick is buried. It was an eerie feeling looking at the headstones and seeing the age of the boys who fell, 18, 19, 20 and so on. It didn't seem fair that so many of our young men gave their lives at this site and made you really respect the life we all live now and that the challenges we face at times pale in comparison to what these young men faced.

John, Michelle and Darren escorted us around the sites with the skill and precision of people who have been there and done that hundreds of times before which made it easier to actually get to areas and also learn about the significance of the specific sites.

One note I must make about Turkey is the food. It is beautiful to say the least but the amount is phenomenal. You are served a miniature portion at a time, say the size of one spoon, but you are served it about 25 times. Because the food is so nice you keep thinking that just one more spoonful will be ok. By the time you tally it up you have just eaten the equivalent of 3 main courses back home.

The following day we were given the news that the peninsula was being closed down from 11 am to 5 pm to allow the Turkish and New Zealand dignitaries access to the sites prior to the crowds arriving. We took a walk to Shell Green Cemetery and then got back for a few hours sleep before we had to be up and on the road by 11 am. We did have a chat with the Hotel Kum owners and we have committed to upgrade their electrical services to better accommodate the numbers we will be arriving with.We had been fore warned about the temperature but the days had been unusually warm and sunny as the photos show. This lead to a warmer night than usual and a blessing in disguise to the thousands that camped out over night. We arrived at Anzac Cove about 11 pm and it was a hive of activity with thousands already camped out and the Turkish vendors selling everything from Kebabs to blankets. The call of 'Kebab Kebab Chicken Kebab' became a welcome sound later in the night as the hunger and cold set in.

The service itself was amazing and more emotional than usual considering the setting. The crowd was on it's best behavior and it was great to see so many young people make the pilgrimage from Australia and New Zealand to pay their respects. As the sun rose over the sphinx the solemn silence really brought home the significance of the site and what the men who fought there sacrificed for us all.

From Anzac Cove we made our way up Artillery Road, a 1.3 km hike, to Lone Pine where the Australian service was held. There was a distinct difference in the Australian service as it was more of a celebration of our past compared to the solemn nature of the Anzac Cove service. It was just as, if not more, moving than the Anzac Cove service and the swell of national pride overwhelmed everyone that was there.

I don't think I can truly express the impact visiting Anzac Cove has on you in just this small narrative. It has become a pilgrimage or a right of passage for us all to experience and one that is abound with rewards that you will take away with you for the rest of your life. The sacrifices made by the Australian and New Zealand men at this one site really has forged the spirit of our two countries together forever more. I would like to thank John Waller, his daughter Michelle and husband Darren and the people at Boronia Travel for giving me the opportunity to experience this and I know that you all will take something different away with you. Be it a greater understanding of a loved ones hardships during a time of chaos or just a new found respect for what has been sacrificed in the past.The people at the Hotel Kum, Kamal and Cenk went out of their way to make everyone feel at home and it felt more like staying with family than with a hotel. All those that served in Gallipoli and every other conflict since are our heroes, not because they did what was right but because they freely risked their lives for their country and the greater good, without question. To all the members of the armed forces, past and present, I will never truly understand what you have been through for this great country of ours but now I feel I am one step closer to understanding why you do what you do. My hat is off to you all and from the bottom of my heart I thank you all.

Cheers

Doug Marr